Is it worth visiting Phnom Penh? Do you fancy sailing the Mekong or afternoon tea at Raffles (or even gin tasting) or exploring the King’s official residence?  If the answer is yes then Phnom Penh is for you!

We asked ourselves if we should include Phnom Penh but our kids told us that it is great so it made the cut.  We spent four busy days in the city and our only regret was that we couldn’t add another.

Read on and we’ll share our favourite reasons why Phnom Penh is worth visiting! 

1. What Is Phnom Penh Like?

Phnom Penh – The Capital of Cambodia (Photo: Collected)

On the drive from the airport, we were surprised at how unremarkable the city looked; it could have been any big Asian city.  It was only as we grew closer to our hotel, in the heart of downtown Phnom Penh, that the city unfolded.

It’s true that Phnom Penh is noisy and dirty and chaotic and crazy and yet, in spite of this, there is something about the soul of Phnom Penh that will make you fall in love.

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2. Top 10 Things To Do In Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is a city of contrast.  You can visit temples, like Wat Phnom, or the beautiful Royal Palace and gardens, or the Cambodian National Museum.  There are wonderful little art galleries and the crazy chaos of the city markets.

Here are our top 10 things to add to your itinerary to make your visit worth while :

2.1. Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre | The Killing Fields

Choeung Ek (Photo: Collected)

Cambodia and the Killing Fields are linked in my mind and no visit to the country would be complete without learning about the Khmer Rouge regime.

This is a sobering trip. Cheoung Ek, more commonly known as the Killing Fields, was originally an orchard, south of Phnom Penh.  In the 1970’s it became a place of execution and burial for thousands of Khmer Rouge victims.

129 mass graves have been excavated and today Choeung Ek is a memorial for those victims. At its centre is a Buddhist stupa with windows on each side; filled with more than 5,000 human skulls.   Boardwalks have been created to protect the graves and our guide told us that every year bones and teeth come to the surface during the rainy season.

Whilst the events which took place here are horrific the site today is not.  Going with a guide taught us that Cambodia is not sad nor clinging to its past.  It is modern and vibrant and forward thinking. You don’t need a guide to visit the Killing Fields but I would definitely recommend one.  And as with all tours, ours included a visit to Tuol Sleng (S21).

2.2. Independence Monument

Independence Monument (Photo: Collected)

This isn’t really a place to visit but the Independence Monument is an important landmark and whilst it’s beautiful during the day it’s very pretty at night when lit.  It represents a lotus flower and blends modern design with Khmer architecture.  It’s on a roundabout and no doubt you’ll drive around this at least one during your stay.

2.3. National Museum of Cambodia

National Museum of Cambodia (Photo: Collected)

We stumbled across the National Museum of Cambodia by accident on our return from the Royal Palace.  The building and gardens are so impressive that we thought it might be a private residence.

It’s the country’s largest cultural history museum and its purpose is to preserve and showcase Cambodia’s cultural heritage.  Within its walls you’ll find the world’s largest collection of Khmer art, including sculpture, ceramics, and bronzes, with exhibits dating from the 4th century.

2.4. Raffles Hotel Afternoon Tea

Afternoon Tea at The Grand Lobby (Photo: Collected)

Everyone has heard of the Singapore Sling in the Raffles Long Bar but did you know about the Femme Fatale in Phnom Penh, created in 1967 in honour of Jackie Kennedy’s visit? Even if you don’t have the budget to stay a night in the opulent Raffles Phnom Penh, you can drop in to the Elephant Bar for their signature cocktail or opt for a rather indulgent Afternoon Tea.

The afternoon tea includes a selection of fine teas, freshly baked scones, delicate finger sandwiches, and an assortment of pastries and sweets.  You can also ask for one of their famous cocktails or a glass of champagne. Afternoon Tea is typically served daily from around 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM and special diets can be catered for, but you must book ahead.

2.5. Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

Silver Pagoda Phnom Penh (Photo: Collected)

You should not visit Phnom Penh without exploring the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. We first went as part of a walking tour and whilst the guided commentary was great, we did feel a little rushed.  Indeed, we went back a second time alone which worked well.

The gardens are beautiful as are the buildings. You don’t need a guide but the guide did help us  make the most of your visit and ensured that we saw all that was available.

This is a great full day tour and you see a lot in a day, meaning you can cherry pick the places you wish to go back to.

2.6. S-21 (Tuol Sleng Genocide Musuem)

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (Photo: Colllected)

Tuol Sleng is also known as S-21.  Most tours will include both a visit to the Killing Fields and S-21. This is a difficult place to visit but not for one minute do we regret going.

S-21 was once a high school but was turned into a prison used for interrogation.  Today it is a museum and remains largely untouched.  The barbed wire and shackles are a stark reminder of what this building was.  17,000 people were brought to S-21 and only a handful of people survived.  Like many regimes, the Khmer Rouge kept records and photographs and those photographs are on display.

I chose not to go into the interrogation rooms and chose not to see those photos.  Instead I sat in the garden and talked to one of the survivors who visits every day.

You can save money and visit alone but don’t because the guide really helped make sense of what we were seeing.  As with the Killing Fields the lasting memory of this tour was one of hope and how amazing the Cambodian people are.  We could learn a great deal from their incredible spirit!

2.7. Sisowath Quay Promenade Along Mekong River

Sisowath Quay in Cambodia (Photo: Collected)

The promenade along the Mekong is not quite as grand as the stroll along the riverside in Ho Chi Minh City at night but that shouldn’t stop you going.  Sisowath Quay is the riverside area of Phnom Penh that runs along the Tonle Sap River (just as it meets the Mekong River).

This is a popular promenade for locals and tourists and stretches for about three kilometres although most folks just stay in the area around the Quay.  If you take a Sunset Cruise it ends here and you can wander along the Promenade at night and see the city’s temples and palaces adorned in coloured lights.

 At weekends you’ll also find the Phnom Penh Night Market (very much like the Walking Street Weekend Market in Hanoi).

2.8. Sosoro Museum

Sosoro Museum – Cambodian Museum of Economy and Money (Photo: Collected)

Sosoro Museum is often overlooked in favour of the National Museum but it’s a fabulous little space offering 2,000 years of Cambodian history. This is a new museum (with great air conditioning) and offers a totally different perspective, from the viewpoint of money and politics.

Learn how commerce developed and about the Kingdom of Cambodia on an ancient international stage.  Learn more about Angkor Wat and Khmer culture and the impact of the Pol Pot regime on modern Cambodia.

The Sosoro Museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00am to 9:00pm.  Allow 1-2 hours to fully appreciate it.  This is a fascinating space and well worth the 5€ entry fee.

2.9. Wat Botum Park

Wat Botum (Photo: Collected)

Not far from the Royal Palace you’ll find Wat Botum Temple within Wat Botum Park. Wat Botum is a Khmer Buddhist pagoda, built in the 15th century and one of the five oldest pagodas in Phnom Penh. As well as Wat Botum, you’ll also find the Cambodia-Vietnam friendship memorial and the large statue of Hang Meas (a sacred golden bird that I thought was a dragon).

This is a lovely green space (albeit with lots of paved area too) and popular with locals and if you’re lucky the fountains will be on too.  It’s not far from the riverfront so if you’re taking a stroll to the waterfront then include the park too.

2.10. Wat Phnom

Wat Phnom (Photo: Collected)

The city took it’s name from Wat Phnom.  Sited on the only small hill in the city, history tells us that the first pagoda was erected in 1373. According to legend, four Buddha statues were washed up along the shore of the Mekong and discovered by a woman called Penh.  Other accounts suggest a different origin, but they agree the site is ancient.  The temple has been rebuilt many times, the most recent was rebuilt a hundred years ago.

It’s a simple, but beautiful temple and perhaps best visited at night when it’s illuminated (although it’s lovely at any time of day).  It’s a peaceful site, nestled now amongst French Colonial buildings.  There are a few steps to climb but it’s worth it to enjoy the temple, the shrine and various statues and carvings and the interior is beautifully decorated

The entrance fee is just 1$ and you need no more than an hour to explore.

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